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|
| MOUNT
KENYA PEAKS OVERVIEW |
| Peak |
Altitude |
|
|
[m]
|
[ft]
|
| Batian
|
5199 |
17057 |
| Nelion
|
5188 |
17021 |
| Point
Lenana |
4985 |
16355 |
| Point
Pigott |
4957 |
16263 |
| Point
Thomson and Thomson Flake |
4955 |
16257 |
| Point
Dutton |
4885 |
16027 |
| Point
Melhuish |
4880 |
16010 |
| Point
John |
4863 |
15955 |
| Point
Peter |
4757 |
15607 |
| Midget
Peak |
4700 |
15420 |
|
Mt
Kenya Rock Climb and technical climb in
Mt Kenya National park
| MOUNT
KENYA CLIMBING HISTORY |
| 1880s
to 1890s |
Early
exploration and attempts on
Mount Kenya by Count Teleki,
Dr J W Gregory, George Kolb
and others. |
| 1899
|
First
ascent of Mount Kenya by Halford
MacKinder, C. Ollier, and J.
Brocherel. They ascended Nelion
as far as South Ridge, traversed
onto the Diamond Glacier and
then summited Batian via the
Gates of Mist. |
| 1929
|
First
ascent of Nelion via what is
now the Normal Route by Eric
Shipton and Percy Wyn Harris.
They descended into the Gates
of Mist and then climbed Batian,
thus making the second ascent
of Mount Kenya. |
| 1930
|
First
traverse of Mount Kenya by Eric
Shipton and Bill Tilman. They
climbed the West Ridge of Batian
from Firmin Col and then descended
via the Nelion Normal Route. |
| 1943
|
Italian
P.O.W.s , Felice Benuzzi, Giovanni
Balletto and Enzo Barsotti,
inspired by the magical sight
of Mount Kenya, escaped from
their wartime internment camp
near Nanyuki and made an attempt
on Batian by the West Ridge,
with improvised equipment, sparse
food and no maps or prior knowledge
of the mountain. They didn't
summit Batian, but were able
to plant an Italian flag on
Point Lenana, thereby thumbing
their noses at their British
captors. They then returned
to face the music at the prison
camp. Benuzzi recounts their
fascinating story in his book
"No Picnic on Mount Kenya." |
| 1944
|
Arthur
Firmin and P.H. Hicks made the
first ascent of the Batian by
what is now the North
Face Normal Route. |
| 1970s
|
Most
of the major remaining lines
on the mountain were opened
by Ian Howell, Iain Allan and
others. |
| 1973
|
First
ascent of the Diamond Couloir
by Phil Snyder and T. Mathenge. |
| 1976
|
Ian
Howell and D.J. Temple open
the Diamond Buttress original
route. |
| 1980s
to present |
Steady
ongoing development of new and
mostly harder routes between
the existing lines. |
| 27th
August 2010 |
A
new Kenya Consitution is placed
on top of Mt Kenya Lenana as
well as Batian where Kenyan
flag was hoisted. |
|
| MOUNT
KENYA TREKKING ROUTES |
|
Route
Name: |
Aproaches
from: |
Major
camps and
landmarks en route: |
Route
Overview: |
| Naro
Moru |
West |
Naro
Moru Gate (2500m)
Met
Station (3000m)
The
"Vertical Bog"
Teleki
Valley
Mackinder's
Camp (4200m)
|
The
Naro Moru route is the fastest
and therefore also the most
popular route onto the mountain,
being used by many of the tour
and outfitting companies guiding
clients up to Point Lenana.
It is not particularly scenic
and the rapid ascent profile
makes it unsuitable for climbers
wishing to acclimatise more
gradually and sensibly.
The Naro Moru route also features
the legendary "Vertical Bog",
a steep quagmire of wet moorland
that is extremely taxing and
unpleasant after rains.
The final climb up to the Austrian
Hut tackles a long, loose and
uncompromising scree slope up
the side of the Teleki Valley.
Basically, you don't want to
do this route unless you're
in a hurry to bag Point Lenana
on a quick 3-day programme.
Descending via the Naro Moru
route is fine though. |
| Chogoria |
East |
Meru
Mt. Kenya Bandas (3000m)
Gorges
Valley
Lake
Michaelson
Minto's
Hut / Hall Tarns (4300m)
|
The
Chogoria route is said to be
the most scenic and interesting
of the three main routes on
the mountain.
The route passes the enchanting
Hall Tarns and looks down sheer
cliffs into the spectacular
Gorges Valley and onto the beautiful
Lake Michaelson.
The Austrian Hut is reached
via Tooth Col at the head of
the valley. |
| Sirimon |
North |
Sirimon
Gate (2500m)
Old
Moses Camp (3300m)
Liki
North Camp (4000m)
Mackinder's
Valley
Shipton's
Camp (4200m)
|
The
Sirimon route is the least used
of the three main routes, but
features the most gradual ascent
profile and best acclimatisation
options.
The route passes through impressive
Yellowwood forests in the lower
reaches and features abundant
wildlife and beautiful alpine
scenery higher up.
The Austrian Hut and Point Lenana
are reached from the head of
Mackinder's Valley via Simba
Col. |
|
Mt
Kenya climbing ,Rock climb to NELION &
BATIAN peaks find routes and prices:
| MOUNT
KENYA CLIMBING ROUTES |
| Peak:
|
Route
Name: |
Grade:
(East African) |
Nelion
and
Batian |
Normal
(Nelion S.E. face) |
IV-
|
| Mackinder's
|
IV
|
| South
Face |
IV
|
| Ice
Window (*) |
V-
|
| Diamond
Couloir (*) |
VI
|
| Southern
Slabs |
VI-
|
| Diamond
Buttress (original) |
VI
|
| Equator
|
VI+,
A1 |
| North
Face Standard Route (to Batian) |
IV+
|
| North
Gate |
VI
|
| East
Gate |
V+
|
| Point
Lenana |
Normal
|
Scramble
|
| Point
John |
South
Ridge |
IV-
|
| South-East
Gully |
III
|
| Point
John Coiloir |
V
|
| Mt
Kenya Rock Climbing Normal route |
|
| EAST
AFRICAN GRADES |
| East
African |
French
(alpine) |
American
(rock) |
| I
|
F
|
5.1
- 5.4 |
| II
|
PD
|
5.5 |
| III |
AD
|
5.6
- 5.7 |
| IV
|
D
|
5.8 |
| V
|
TD
|
5.9
- 5.12 |
| VI
|
ED
|
|
| VII |
ED+ |
|
|
| MOUNT
KENYA HUTS AND BIVI'S |
| Name |
Location
|
Altitude
|
Managed
by |
Judmaier
Hut
(Old Moses Hut) |
Sirimon
Route |
3300m |
Mountain
Rock Hotel |
| Shipton's
Hut |
Sirimon
Route
Mackinder's Valley |
4250m |
Mountain
Rock Hotel |
| Met
Station Lodge |
Naro
Moru Route
Met Station |
3050m |
Naro
Moru River Lodge |
| Mackinder's
Hut |
Naro
Moru Route
Teleki Valley |
4200m |
Naro
Moru River Lodge |
| Austrian
Hut |
Lewis
Glacier |
4800m |
Mount
Kenya National Parks |
| Top
Hut |
Lewis
Glacier |
4800m |
Mountain
Club of Kenya |
| Baillie's
Bivi |
Normal
Route on Nelion |
5000m |
Mountain
Club of Kenya |
| Howell
Hut |
Summit
of Nelion |
5188m |
Mountain
Club of Kenya |
|
Mt
Kenya Technical Rock Standard Normal Route
|
|
|
|
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