Mt Kenya Technical climbthrough North Face Standard route via chogoria approach best Season is from Early July through to the end of October
The Northface standard route starts from Shiptons Camp or from Kami Hut at 0330 hrs – 2 hrs hike to the base of climbing. The start is Grade IV+. The first two pitches are easy for scrambling, Another Grade III then Grade 11 and a Grade IV to get to the amphitheatre. From there an easy donkey walk to the base of Firmin Tower. Two routes emerge here. One up the Tower quite tricky about Grade V in a small gully not enough to fit in. The other is around the tower, easier but longer.
After that you come to the knife edge you do a Grade IV+ pitch and another Grade IV pitch before you come to a traverse that leads you to the Shiptons notch. At the Shiptons notch rocks are quite lose and need to be handled with care. After you are through with Shiptons notch, then reach Batian 5,199m. After reaching carefully the top, then abseil down; you do a lot of down climbing. This is the longest climb. It’s 23 pitches.
Best done from June to early October.
All the routes are Graded IV and V most of the pitches.
For the climbing equipment, you have to bring your own harness, climbing boot, crampons, ice axe, warm sleeping bag, bivy bag and light tent. The other climbing equipment like friends, figure of eight, stopper, ropes will be provided.Our Mountain guides are well experienced on technical knowledge, having being trained by N.O.L.S (The American National Outdoor Leadership School)and working with Kenya Wildlife Service (K.W.S) helping them with the mountain rescues in Mount Kenya National Park.
North Face – 8 Days Mt. Kenya Climb – Up Old Moses, Liki route & down Chogoria Technical Climbing
Leave Nairobi at 8.00 am to Nanyuki, which normally takes 4hrs drive, arriving at 12.00, then proceed to Mt Kenya National Park Sirimon gate, picnic lunch will be provided.After lunch, follow the track uphill for 10 kms, forking left at the junction to reach Old Moses camp which is situated at 3,300m. The ascent from Sirimon gate to Old Moses is 690m. Dinner/overnight.
After breakfast, leave at 8.00 am, follow the directions for the direct route, until you reach the fork after one hour. The track becomes a path, and swings right and south round the head of a large valley, crossing several small streams to reach the crest of the ridge between the Otulili and Liki North Valleys.A walk of 3 to 4 hours to Liki North hut at 3,993m. Dinner/overnight
After breakfast, ascend the west side of the Valley, over a ridge, then down into the Mackinders Valley to meet the direct route, taking one to two hours. From here, follow the Mackinders Valley to reach Shipton camp, a total of 4 hours from Liki to Shiptons camp at 4,250m.Dinner/overnight.
After breakfast at 9.00 a.m. ascend to Kami hut 4,600m which normally takes 2hrs. Dinner/overnight. [Kami hut is the base camp for climbers who are doing North Face].
Wake up at 5.00 a.m., have tea and biscuits, then leave at 5.30 to the base of North Face, which normally takes 45 mins to 1 hour, this section is rocky and frozen scree.Continue walking until you reach the starting point of rock climbing, then start climbing at 7.00 a.m., spending a night at Firmin Tower, (10 ropes of 50m).
From Firmin Tower continue rock climbing until you reach Batian at 5,199m, 12.00 midday, then abseil down to the bottom and walk to Shipton camp, dinner/overnight.
After breakfast, ascend Simba col then down to Meru Mount Kenya Bandas above Chogoria, following the Gorges Valley.It will take 7 hours to reach the bandas. Dinner/ overnight.
After morning breakfast, continue walking down through the bamboo and indigenous forest to reach Bairunyi to meet up with your transport back to Nairobi.
Transport from Nairobi, to as high as possible on the mountain and return to Nairobi.
Quality fresh food but with some prepared (client to advise any particular likes / dislikes or dietary considerations).
Porters for all food and tentage, plus up to 15 kgs. of the clients personal equipment.
All tents, sleeping mats, eating and cooking utensils etc.
Services Techinical guide
Park entrance and camping fees.
All gear and equipment, i.e. Helmet and harness, 2 x 9mm ropes, we use double rope system , Slings, karabinas and other protection devices.
First and last night accomodation
Tips to porters / guides.
Foot wear and sleeping bag
You can extend the climb with a safari either camping or lodge or beach holiday